CLOTH.

 1. Fabric woven, felted or knitted, made of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic fibres. Commonly used for garments and other covering. 2. Piece of fabric of type, size, texture adapted to certain uses; as tablecloth, sailcloth, etc. 

border fabric. Design printed along selvage or printed parallel with selvage.

bouclé. Novelty yarn of various fibers, having loops to produce nubby surface on fabric woven or knitted from it.

braid. Narrow cord-like strip woven of silk, wool, linen etc. for trimming, binding, designs, outlines etc. Varieties of braids usually named for use or appearance.

broadcloth. Closely woven fabric in plain weave, of cotton, silk, rayon, or mixtures. Has light crosswise rib because filling yarn is heavier than warp with less twist. Resembles fine poplin. Used for men’s shirts, women’s and children’s sports and tailored dresses, pajamas.

brushed wool. Napped woollen fabric, usually containing long, silky mohair fibres.

challis. Soft, lightweight, plain woven fabric without gloss, either plain or printed. Made of fine wool, or wool mixture, one of the softest cloths made of wool, or of cotton and rayon.

check. 1. Pattern in squares of any size, woven or applied. resembling checkerboard; also, square in such a design. 2. Fabric having pattern of squares.

hound’s-tooth c. Small, irregular design of broken checks.

chiffon. Soft, delicately sheer fabric in plain weave of silk, rayon etc. having soft or sometimes stiff finishes. Used for dresses, foundations, scarfs, blouses, veils etc. Often used double.

calico. 1. plain, woven cotton cloth printed with figured pattern on one side. Also called cotton print. 2. In England, plain white cotton cloth. So called for Calicut, India, where cotton textiles were first printed.

corduroy. Durable cotton or rayon cut pile fabric in either plain or twill weave with wide or narrow wales, cords or ribs which are formed by extra weft or filling, making wales, cords or ribs. Made in black, white and a wide range of colours; sometimes printed.

denim. Strong, coarse, washable fabric in twill weave; yarn dyed, sometimes in white or different coloured filling. Used for overalls, heavy wash garments, dresses, jackets, jeans and shirts. From French de Nîmes, meaning from Nîmes, a town in France.

fancy weave. Simple designs are woven over the regular filling yarns. Doby weave is an example, a type of construction in which small geometrical figures are woven in the cloth.

felt. Thick firm packed, smoothly matted fabric, made of rayon, wool, hair, fur and cotton that are carded, hardened, and treated by moisture, heat and pressure. Used for hats, pennants, caps and glove linings.

flannel. An all-wool fabric of woollen or worsted yarn with a soft napped finish. It may be twill or plain weave. Viyella flannel is a Williams, Hollins and Company trade name for a cotton or wool flannel made in England.  Associated with sensible cosy clothing.

flannelette. Soft cotton fabric, slightly napped: in white, solid colours, floral and plaid designs. Used for baby garments, loungewear and shirts.

fussy cut. Cut fabric shapes that isolate a specific focal point, colour or motif that is found in the fabric.

gingham. A yarn-dyed plain-weave cotton fabric with woven-in plaids, checks or stripes.

jersey. Plain-knitted ribbed fabric; usually wool or worsted, but also silk, rayon, cotton, etc. Used for undergarments, dresses, suits, coats, sweaters, bathing suits, etc.

Liberty. Trade name for fabrics exclusive with Liberty, of London; notably, fine-textured silks and cottons of excellent quality.

Liberty pattern. All over floral print, delicately balanced in colour, typical of the designs used by Liberty, of London, for their fabrics.

nap. Fuzzy or hairy substance of fibres projecting on some materials, giving downy appearance, forming soft surface and lying smoothly in one direction.

organza. Sheer, fine, crisp fabric.

pom-pon. Tuft or ball of feathers, wool or ribbon. Usually worn as an ornament on a barrette, handbag, shawl, sweater or costumes.

rick rack braid. Flat woven braid in zigzag form. Made in cotton, silk, rayon and wool, in various sizes and many colours. Used for trimming.

satin. Silk or rayon fabric, having smooth finish, high gloss on face, and dull back; also double-faced. Luster and brilliancy are due to manner of weaving and finishing between heated cylinders. Used for dresses, blouses, accessories, coats, linings, lingerie, trimmings, etc.

sequin. Shining disk or spangle of metal or other substance. Used to ornament fabric and add glitter to evening garments and accessories.

raw silk. Fibre of silkworm cocoons.

smocking stitch. Decorative stitching holding fullness in regular patterns often elaborately done.

smoked pearl. Mother-of-pearl in dark, smoky grey colour. Used for buttons, studs, etc.

suede cloth. Woven or knitted fabric with surface napped and shorn to give appearance of suede leather.

swiss cotton. Fine, crisp cotton fabric; plain, dotted or figured; white or coloured. Design made by chemical application; swivel or lapel weaving. Originated in Switzerland. used for dresses, blouses, curtains, etc.

tulle.(F. tool). Fine, small meshed net, made of silk, cotton, or synthetics.

twill weave. Weave producing distinct diagonal ribs or lines on fabric. Cotton twills include denim, a strong coarse washable cotton fabric in a twill weave.

weft. Yarn running crosswise of woven fabric, at right angles to warp, which is lengthwise yarn.

warp. Lengthwise threads of fabric that form the foundation between which the weft, or filling of crosswise threads, is woven.

worsted. Firm, strong, smooth-surfaced yarn spun from long-staple, evenly combed, pure wool.