Tag Archives: bishop sleeve

GRAD COLLECTION: BLACK COAT 1978

MAY 14, 2020

Other than the raincoat from, FASHION SHOW: SECOND YEAR COLLECTION 1977, this is one of a small number of coats that I have designed.

The brushed wool wrap-coat has a shawl collar, bishop sleeves and a fabric belt at the waist. Like a 1950s circle skirt; from the waist to the hem the coat flares out. The lining is satin. Braid trim is on the collar and front edge of the coat and on the bishop sleeves.

Brushed wool is a directional fabric; it has nap, just like velvet, corduroy or suede. When you run your hand over the cloth in one direction the surface appears smooth, silky and reflects light; run your hand in the other direction and the surface is raised, matte and absorbs light, making the colour look darker.

The upper part of the collar and the lower part of the sleeve have been cut on the reverse nap, so they look like a silky black compared to the rest of the coat.

 

Janice's sketch, wool coat; shawl collar wrap, tie at waist, bishop sleeves; collar and sleeve contrast is reverse side of fabric

Janice’s sketch, wool coat; shawl collar wrap, tie at waist, bishop sleeves; collar and sleeve contrast, cut on reverse nap for contrast ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

 

GRAD COLLECTION: BLACK VELVET 1978

APRIL 30, 2020

In this group there are four designs. The common elements are black knit velvet and two floral challis prints, pink, blue and green on a black background. One is a border print. The theme is a folklore vibe with layering and mixing of challis plain weave prints with the plush knit velvet.

Black satin ribbon, 1.5 and 2 cm widths, and black lace create visual interest to the velvet because the open-net lace adds  a layer of texture and the ribbon adds a layer of shine. The contrast enhances the richness of the velvet without adding colour.

left: jumper dress and blouse, right: pullover vest and dress

left: jumper dress and blouse, right: pullover vest and dress

Jumper dress and blouse

The black velvet jumper dress has a U-neck, short bodice with one row of ribbon around the bodice line, two rows of ribbon, 1.5 and 2cm wide, at the hemline. There are racer-back armholes and a back zip.

The challis blouse has a ruffle neckline and self-fabric tie for the bow. There is a ruffle at the cap of the sleeve. The border fabric is placed above the wrist and finished with a drawstring tie.

Janice’s sketch, black velvet jumper dress, satin ribbon trim, racer-back armholes; challis blouse, neck bow, ruffle at neck and cap of the sleeve ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

black velvet jumper, challis blouse

black velvet jumper dress, challis blouse

Pullover vest and dress

The black velvet vest has a U-neck and short bodice with racer-back armholes.

The challis dress with button front closure, has ruffle neckline and self-fabric tie for the bow. There is a ruffle at the cap of the sleeve. The border print is placed above the wrist and finished with a drawstring tie. The single tier of the dress is finished with a border print hem.

Janice's sketch, black velvet pullover vest, racer-back armholes; challis dress with front buttons, neck bow, ruffle at armhole; contrasting border fabric for the bottom tier

Janice’s sketch, black velvet pullover vest, racer-back armholes; challis dress with front buttons, neck bow, ruffle at the cap of the sleeve; contrasting border fabric for the bottom tier ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

black velvet pullover vest, challis dress, contrasting border fabric for the bottom tier 

black velvet pullover vest, challis dress, contrasting border fabric for the bottom tier

 

Jumper and blouse, vest and dress

Fun times! Jumper dress and blouse, vest and dress

Blouse and skirt

The black velvet blouse with button front and bishop sleeves has a satin ribbon tied in a bow and a lace ruffle at neckline, satin ribbon and lace at the wrists.

The challis skirt has three tiers, with two rows of satin ribbon, 1.5 and 2cm wide, on the top and middle tier. The bottom tier is finished with a border print hem.

Janice's sketch, black velvet blouse, bishop sleeve, lace at cuffs and neck, satin bow tied at neck; skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier

Janice’s sketch, black velvet blouse, bishop sleeve, lace at cuffs and neck, satin bow tied at neck; skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier, satin ribbon ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

black velvet blouse, tiered skirt with ribbon and border print

Blouse and skirt

The blouse with Peter Pan collar and placket front, has two coordinating challis prints on the front yoke and the same coordinating prints on the bishop sleeves and their cuffs. The prints have a narrow satin ribbon to cover where the patterns were sewn together.

The skirt has two tiers.

Variations:

The blouse fabric is a fine rib jersey with shimmer like the blouse in the Red & Green Collection (hot pants and blouse).

The bottom tier is finished with two fabrics, one floral and a horizontal stripe, not shown anywhere else, which finishes the hem.

Janice's sketch; blouse, fine rib jersey with shimmer, bishop sleeve with challis print bands, collar and placket challis print, skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier © Janice Colbert

Janice’s sketch; blouse, fine rib jersey with shimmer, bishop sleeve with challis print bands, collar and placket challis print, skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

blouse, fine rib jersey with shimmer, bishop sleeve with challis print bands, collar and placket challis print, skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier

blouse, fine rib jersey with shimmer, bishop sleeve with challis print bands, collar and placket challis print, skirt, challis print and border print on bottom tier

 

blouse, back view

blouse, back view