Tag Archives: shawl collar

GRAD COLLECTION: BLACK COAT 1978

MAY 14, 2020

Other than the raincoat from, FASHION SHOW: SECOND YEAR COLLECTION 1977, this is one of a small number of coats that I have designed.

The brushed wool wrap-coat has a shawl collar, bishop sleeves and a fabric belt at the waist. Like a 1950s circle skirt; from the waist to the hem the coat flares out. The lining is satin. Braid trim is on the collar and front edge of the coat and on the bishop sleeves.

Brushed wool is a directional fabric; it has nap, just like velvet, corduroy or suede. When you run your hand over the cloth in one direction the surface appears smooth, silky and reflects light; run your hand in the other direction and the surface is raised, matte and absorbs light, making the colour look darker.

The upper part of the collar and the lower part of the sleeve have been cut on the reverse nap, so they look like a silky black compared to the rest of the coat.

 

Janice's sketch, wool coat; shawl collar wrap, tie at waist, bishop sleeves; collar and sleeve contrast is reverse side of fabric

Janice’s sketch, wool coat; shawl collar wrap, tie at waist, bishop sleeves; collar and sleeve contrast, cut on reverse nap for contrast ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

 

FASHION SHOW: SECOND YEAR COLLECTION 1977

MARCH 19, 2020

The annual fashion show to highlight the Fashion Arts Programme graduate student designers, took place in April 1977. The first year designers exhibited one work per student. The second year designers were well on their way with more work to exhibit that included seven to eight garments each.

I received a phone call on the residence phone where I lived. There was one phone for everyone’s use on the floor. A girl came running to my room to tell me that there was a call for me. My mother had called; we were waiting for test results because she found a lump in her breast. She called to say she needed a mastectomy. I went home to be with her. My family was  in shock over her diagnosis.

I wasn’t able to attend the final dress rehearsal on the weekend before the show.

I was in attendance for the night of the show to take a bow on stage. My parents were there; mum would not have missed it. Her surgery came later.

Here are the themes for each group of designs that was assigned to the class during our second year.

LOUNGEWEAR

The designs included baseball shorts, boxing outfit, hockey jumpsuit, two hitchhiking outfits, jumpsuit, umpire gear and jodhpurs. A sports theme was obviously the brief. What does hitchhiking loungewear look like? Not sure, but there were two students that showed them.

Janice's sketch, cotton knot t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing strips down the side seam of the top and shorts.

Janice’s sketch, cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the side seam of the top and shorts ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

 

cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the the side seams

cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the side seams ©Janice Colbert 2020

RAINCOATS

Raincoats included cape coat, wrap and jacket, navy coat, reversible coat, khaki coat, tunic, rose coat with green vest, green coat and a yellow suit. Mine was the wrap and jacket shown here.

 

 

raincoat, pullover and wrap waist, raglan sleeves, front fly conceals grippers, centre back pleat,

Janice’s sketch, raincoat, pullover and wrap waist, raglan sleeves, front fly conceals gripper snaps, centre back pleat, elbow patches ©Janice Colbert 2020

Fabric backed red vinyl.

 

 

 

SUMMER (Red & White)

Red and white fabric was the theme. It was an exciting assignment, quite a flurry in the classroom because we were getting free fabric donated by a fabric manufacturer! Everyone received the same amount of yardage. It was either two or three prints. We were to create anything we wanted but had to work within the limits assigned. No more fabric could be added.

Janice's sketch, red and white floral skirts and camisole

Janice’s sketch, red and white floral, layered skirts and camisole ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

left: friend Sally’s garments, right: layered skirts and camisole

GARDEN PARTY

The descriptions are sumptuous, just to list them is enough: white blouson lace dress, yellow handkerchief print dress, blue floral dress, white ruffled dress, cotton strapless dress, beige chiffon covered dress, blue chiffon covered dress. See what I mean?

The blue chiffon covered dress was mine. Elastic thread was used to sew all those lines, to create a tube-top bodice on an ankle-length knit dress.  The hem was finished with a narrow zigzag stitch.

 

chiffon cover, one-shoulder asymmetric neckline, starting over the right shoulder and extending diagonally to under the left arm

chiffon cover, one-shoulder asymmetric neckline, starting over the right shoulder and extending diagonally to tie under the left arm ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

(detail) ankle length dress, elastic-shirred bodice, polyester knit

(detail) ankle length dress, elastic-shirred bodice, polyester knit, zigzag stitched hem

 

(front detail) blue chiffon cover for ankle length dress, extending diagonally to tie under the left arm

(front detail) blue chiffon cover for ankle length dress, extending diagonally to tie under the left arm

 

SWIMWEAR

Swimwear was mostly described by colour for the show, copper, blue green, blue and print, peach and turquoise, a Tankini and another fashion-forward cowboy swimsuit.

 

Janice sketch, Tankini made in 1977, before Tankini became a fashion item in 1988

Janice’s sketch, turquoise nylon/spandex Tankini made in 1977, before Tankini became a fashion item in 1988 ©Janice Colbert 2020

TAILORED WOOLS

Tailored wool . . . I can’t believe I made this complex suit as a second year student. But to a great extent, some of the students that were in my year came to college already well versed in design and had been sewing and drawing for years. There were things that we learned like pattern making and draping. But the point was made by the instructors that when an early interest is demonstrated, some students have ‘an inherent design sense’ something special that can’t be taught. It’s just there.

The line up for the show included a man’s charcoal coat, knickers and vest, blue and grey stripe suit, brown gauchos, burgundy suit, cape and kilt, tailored suit.

Janice's sketch, wool bomber jacket, shawl collar, raglan sleeves, hand knit waist band and cuffs, double breasted, leather buttons; slim skirt, with centre front pleat; welt detail on pocket and sleeves

Janice’s sketch, burgundy wool suit; bomber jacket, shawl collar, raglan sleeves, hand-knit waist band and cuffs, double breasted, woven leather buttons, slot seam detail on pocket and sleeves; slim skirt, with centre front pleat ©Janice Colbert 2020

shawl collar, leather buttons; pocket detail-the pockets have their opening in the slot seam ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

hand knit waist band, leather buttons

 

slot seam detail on centre back and raglan sleeve

FANTASY

Fantasy was an under-the-sea assignment. We had an octopus, jelly fish, fish, turtle, nymph, shell and of course a mermaid! I has a lot of fun creating my design. I still have all the patterns pieces. There was a great deal of them for the knapsack “turtle-shell”.

Janice’s sketch, glitter headband, cowl neck pullover. quilted vest, suede knickers, ribbed socks ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

knapsack “dome of the shell” with pockets and gripper snaps ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

quilted vest; the “plastron” or bottom of the shell ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

pattern for knapsack "shell", signed with my instructors initials, meaning the project was approved to go the next step, layout and cutting

pattern for knapsack “shell”, signed with my instructors initials, meaning the project was approved to go the next step, layout and cutting

 

detail of pockets for left and centre of knapsack "shell"

detail of pockets for left and centre of knapsack “shell”