Tag Archives: chiffon

ABOUT

MARCH 19, 2020

I played under my mother’s kitchen table with the fabric scraps left over from the pieces she sewed, aprons and baby clothes to donate for the church bazaar in Halifax. With three small children under the age six, she didn’t sew for her children; she took us to a dressmaker for bespoke and very British dresses with smocking stitch bodices.

 

Later she sewed my dance costumes on her Singer sewing machine when we lived in Key West in the 1960s. My knowledge of fabric names (chiffon, satin, fisheye sequins, tulle,) expanded beyond cotton broadcloth that was typically used for my smocked dresses. At summer camp my first sewing project was a Chicken shaped needle-storage-case. I think there was lot of help in making it because it was an advanced project for a six-year-old child that included rick rack braid sewn within a seam. I might have been able to sew on the buttons for eyes or slip stitch the final seam. Never the less, I took pride in my accomplishment and the root was planted.

 

A few years later, our house in Ottawa had a nook in the kitchen that was big enough for the sewing machine to be set up to sew whenever there were a few moments to spare. Mother continued to sew for home décor and special occasion clothing for herself. There wasn’t as much time for her to sew for her two daughters. I remember a wool plaid coat with fringe for me (a pre-Ralph Lauren country look) and Bouclé spring coats made for Easter. Pink for my younger sister and aqua for me.

 

I sewed most of my clothing as a teenager. Early on Saturday mornings while my family was still sleeping I would go to the living room and cut out a sewing project using the floor (protected with a pattern cutting-board) for a work area. I entered a tailored, fuchsia wool-suit in a Singer Sewing Contest. I won the prize, a turntable. I listened to Sonny and Cher in my bedroom!

 

I wanted to be a fashion designer. I read all the teen fashion-magazines and filled my sketchbooks with my illustrations and glued clothing details torn from magazines beside notations about what I liked about them. I did this because I loved doing it. The books became important because they demonstrated my early engagement with design and were a key component of my portfolio when I applied and was accepted to Fashion Design College.

girl wearing chiffon ballet costume

Janice wearing chiffon and sequin ballet costume Key West Florida

 

chicken shaped needle case 1960s, Bohin needles

Needle case, cotton fancy weave, Rick Rack trim, buttons, 14 cm high x 12 cm wide, thread and Bohin needles

A note about the photographs: Where you see exclusively black and white images, it isn’t because colour prints weren’t available; it is because part of my fashion studies included photography. Not only were the garments designed and patterns drafted, from either sketches or draping on the Judy; the students sewed them on industrial machines. We studied photography, that included photographing our work in the photography studio and darkroom work where we developed and printed our images so as to create a portfolio. Most of the models were friends and students in the program.

FASHION SHOW: SECOND YEAR COLLECTION 1977

MARCH 19, 2020

The annual fashion show to highlight the Fashion Arts Programme graduate student designers, took place in April 1977. The first year designers exhibited one work per student. The second year designers were well on their way with more work to exhibit that included seven to eight garments each.

I received a phone call on the residence phone where I lived. There was one phone for everyone’s use on the floor. A girl came running to my room to tell me that there was a call for me. My mother had called; we were waiting for test results because she found a lump in her breast. She called to say she needed a mastectomy. I went home to be with her. My family was  in shock over her diagnosis.

I wasn’t able to attend the final dress rehearsal on the weekend before the show.

I was in attendance for the night of the show to take a bow on stage. My parents were there; mum would not have missed it. Her surgery came later.

Here are the themes for each group of designs that was assigned to the class during our second year.

LOUNGEWEAR

The designs included baseball shorts, boxing outfit, hockey jumpsuit, two hitchhiking outfits, jumpsuit, umpire gear and jodhpurs. A sports theme was obviously the brief. What does hitchhiking loungewear look like? Not sure, but there were two students that showed them.

Janice's sketch, cotton knot t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing strips down the side seam of the top and shorts.

Janice’s sketch, cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the side seam of the top and shorts ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

 

cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the the side seams

cotton knit t-shirts with racer-back; cotton knit boxer shorts; white cotton lace for racing stripes along the side seams ©Janice Colbert 2020

RAINCOATS

Raincoats included cape coat, wrap and jacket, navy coat, reversible coat, khaki coat, tunic, rose coat with green vest, green coat and a yellow suit. Mine was the wrap and jacket shown here.

 

 

raincoat, pullover and wrap waist, raglan sleeves, front fly conceals grippers, centre back pleat,

Janice’s sketch, raincoat, pullover and wrap waist, raglan sleeves, front fly conceals gripper snaps, centre back pleat, elbow patches ©Janice Colbert 2020

Fabric backed red vinyl.

 

 

 

SUMMER (Red & White)

Red and white fabric was the theme. It was an exciting assignment, quite a flurry in the classroom because we were getting free fabric donated by a fabric manufacturer! Everyone received the same amount of yardage. It was either two or three prints. We were to create anything we wanted but had to work within the limits assigned. No more fabric could be added.

Janice's sketch, red and white floral skirts and camisole

Janice’s sketch, red and white floral, layered skirts and camisole ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

left: friend Sally’s garments, right: layered skirts and camisole

GARDEN PARTY

The descriptions are sumptuous, just to list them is enough: white blouson lace dress, yellow handkerchief print dress, blue floral dress, white ruffled dress, cotton strapless dress, beige chiffon covered dress, blue chiffon covered dress. See what I mean?

The blue chiffon covered dress was mine. Elastic thread was used to sew all those lines, to create a tube-top bodice on an ankle-length knit dress.  The hem was finished with a narrow zigzag stitch.

 

chiffon cover, one-shoulder asymmetric neckline, starting over the right shoulder and extending diagonally to under the left arm

chiffon cover, one-shoulder asymmetric neckline, starting over the right shoulder and extending diagonally to tie under the left arm ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

(detail) ankle length dress, elastic-shirred bodice, polyester knit

(detail) ankle length dress, elastic-shirred bodice, polyester knit, zigzag stitched hem

 

(front detail) blue chiffon cover for ankle length dress, extending diagonally to tie under the left arm

(front detail) blue chiffon cover for ankle length dress, extending diagonally to tie under the left arm

 

SWIMWEAR

Swimwear was mostly described by colour for the show, copper, blue green, blue and print, peach and turquoise, a Tankini and another fashion-forward cowboy swimsuit.

 

Janice sketch, Tankini made in 1977, before Tankini became a fashion item in 1988

Janice’s sketch, turquoise nylon/spandex Tankini made in 1977, before Tankini became a fashion item in 1988 ©Janice Colbert 2020

TAILORED WOOLS

Tailored wool . . . I can’t believe I made this complex suit as a second year student. But to a great extent, some of the students that were in my year came to college already well versed in design and had been sewing and drawing for years. There were things that we learned like pattern making and draping. But the point was made by the instructors that when an early interest is demonstrated, some students have ‘an inherent design sense’ something special that can’t be taught. It’s just there.

The line up for the show included a man’s charcoal coat, knickers and vest, blue and grey stripe suit, brown gauchos, burgundy suit, cape and kilt, tailored suit.

Janice's sketch, wool bomber jacket, shawl collar, raglan sleeves, hand knit waist band and cuffs, double breasted, leather buttons; slim skirt, with centre front pleat; welt detail on pocket and sleeves

Janice’s sketch, burgundy wool suit; bomber jacket, shawl collar, raglan sleeves, hand-knit waist band and cuffs, double breasted, woven leather buttons, slot seam detail on pocket and sleeves; slim skirt, with centre front pleat ©Janice Colbert 2020

shawl collar, leather buttons; pocket detail-the pockets have their opening in the slot seam ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

hand knit waist band, leather buttons

 

slot seam detail on centre back and raglan sleeve

FANTASY

Fantasy was an under-the-sea assignment. We had an octopus, jelly fish, fish, turtle, nymph, shell and of course a mermaid! I has a lot of fun creating my design. I still have all the patterns pieces. There was a great deal of them for the knapsack “turtle-shell”.

Janice’s sketch, glitter headband, cowl neck pullover. quilted vest, suede knickers, ribbed socks ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

knapsack “dome of the shell” with pockets and gripper snaps ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

quilted vest; the “plastron” or bottom of the shell ©Janice Colbert 2020

 

pattern for knapsack "shell", signed with my instructors initials, meaning the project was approved to go the next step, layout and cutting

pattern for knapsack “shell”, signed with my instructors initials, meaning the project was approved to go the next step, layout and cutting

 

detail of pockets for left and centre of knapsack "shell"

detail of pockets for left and centre of knapsack “shell”